Q&A with Costume Designer and Stylist Rosemary Ponzo

During 2010′s Fashion Week, Cinespect had the pleasure of sitting down with one of its first interviewees, Rosemary Ponzo, an industry veteran who’s worked with the likes of Coppola, Prince and beyond since her entry into the world of fashion design and styling. This time around, appropriately during Fashion Week once again, we sit down with Ms. Ponzo to talk about her latest ventures, her take on what it takes to be a successful designer/stylist for anyone looking to break into the business and, of course, fashion.

Ok, so tell us what you’ve been up to since our last interview; what you’ve got in the works, etc.?

My most recent projects have been working with pharmaceutical companies, doing commercials for them. Although they’re not glamorous they have teeth because they pay a lot (laughs).  I have also been working with a company that is doing a movie called “Harley Quinn,” and it’s an independent film. It’s a very exciting movie because the character of Harley Quinn transforms herself from a psychologist into someone that is quite the diva, almost like Catwoman. And the make-up I’ve done should be very exciting, almost “Black Swan” like.

I worked for Jeff Gordon, grooming him for his charity, which is on television right now, and also for events that he attends with his wife. I also worked on a rap video for Jim Jones; the video is called “Money Bags.” And he is all real Louis Vuitton (laughs). And then I did a Blackberry apps commercial. I love the theater but movies and commercials are fast money. I also did a Sharp Television spot in Japan based on the work of artists like Duras, Degas, Van Gogh, and I had to bring their paintings to life. And it was done in 3D.

Now, speaking to someone that’s reading this and possibly looking to get into costume design, what does it take to be a costume designer?

I think style and taste is innate. I think you either have it or you don’t. And to acquire it takes a lot of motivation and a lot of research. And it really takes someone that is so motivated, that will go that extra mile to do their research to design costumes. I tell my students today that the internet is the best tool there is but I still tell them to get a coffee table costume design book to have the pictures, so they don’t always have to go online. But in a pinch the internet is the best tool.

The research is a 24/7 job. You have to love every second of it. I love every minute of it. The traveling with your actor, the arch, the changes, how their costumes change, why their costumes change, why they’re wearing something, all of the reasoning. It shouldn’t be just putting clothes on people. It should never be that. So what it takes is someone really, really determined, dedicated, and someone who has a definition of who they are before they can go out and say I am a costume designer. The three Ds. And then you’ve got the three Ps: persistence, positivity and perfection. Because I’m never happy (laughs). I always think I could have done better. But in some ways that keeps you going because if you start to lay back you get lazy.

A recent example of mine of going that extra mile was a spot I did for a Parisian shopping mall, which I had to research. For my research I went to a lot of French restaurants and I met people that were from France or their daughter was in from France or something and I asked them, “What do you wear when you go shopping?” Jeans, t-shirts, sunglasses, shoulder bags (had to be Chanel or Hermes) and such. But then I asked what is the difference between a New York shopping mall and a Parisian shopping mall in terms of the clothes. They said the fit. It’s the fit of their jeans or t-shirts. The fit is so perfect. And they hardly wear make-up. And they smoke a lot. I had to put that in the commercial. I asked people visiting from Paris in the restaurants if I could take their photographs. So that’s a way to research. Being out there constantly. Talking to people, seeing what they’re wearing and why did they choose that outfit for shopping

I think we have become so fast paced with the computer technology being faster than the human mind that we have to take the time to  think through a character–and this is especially important if you have a director who does not haave an idea and will let you come up with something–what you need to do is create a back-story. “This person lived in Ohio and she’s moved to New York and she went to this school and she goes to this club.” And from there I would make my clothing choices. Maybe she shops at American Apparel, maybe she shops at H&M or Bloomingdales.

Now I don’t want to risk generalizing too much but in the last 10 years what are trends you’ve noticed in fashion in film?

It has been Hollywood-formulated and geared toward the layman. Geared toward people that just want to have mindless entertainment like “The Hangover,” “Crazy, Stupid, Love,” “ No Strings Attached.” Films in the last 10 years have not made you think. They think for you. People don’t want to think. And a lot of people like to see a lot of special effects, especially these days. Also, there isn’t a lot of prep work allowed for films these days so that affects the approach.

So far as challenges or pitfalls are concerned what should new designers avoid doing?

First of all they should know their resources. Where to get things at any hour of the night. What stores are open because sometimes you’re on a set and a director will change something and it is midnight or 2 in the morning and you’ve gotta have that in the trailer. And if you don’t you better know where you can get it quick. Places like Target, stores in the East Village, Times Square, etc.
Now for some fun questions. 

What about veteran costume designers that are just really at the top of their game? Who are your picks?

Costume designers can always do better when they have a larger budget. So who’s bringing it home are the designers who work with larger budgets because they have more choices, they can buy more clothes…so I would say Ann Roth. Catherine Martin, who did “Moulin Rouge.” It helps to be married to a director (laughs). I still love Milena Canonero. I don’t know what work she’s doing these days.
I think people like that, people that have a budget, they can bring home the best. The people that do indies they must work harder. They must work smarter.

Continuing on with favorites could you name your favorite decade in film, fashion-wise?

It would have to be in the 40s. You knew that! You didn’t even have to ask that! Let’s say 30s to 50s. There was Edith Head, Travis Banton, Adrian, Ruth Morley and many, many, many more. Also Givenchy.

One last fun question: movies that you watch just for the costumes.

“Marie Antoinette,”(the new version designed by Melina Canonero and directed by Sophia Coppola)  “Auntie Mame” and “Clueless!”

Movie Ticket Weekly “The Help”

You know a movie is very good when it manages to leave you both hating and having hope in your own kind. The Help tugged on quite a few heartstrings and had me looking for tissues on more than one occasion. With the combination of a powerful script and brilliant actresses and actors this movie has easily found it’s place among one of my favorite films of this year.

  

Adapted from the 2009 novel by Kathryn Stockett, The Help takes place in the early 1960’s of Jackson, Mississippi with the story focusing on two black house maids, Aibileen Clark (Viola Davis) and Minny Clark (Octavia Spencer), as well as a young white woman named Eugenia “Skeeter” Phelan (Emma Stone).


Set during the harsh times of the Civil Rights era it tells the story of how the three work together to write was to be a controversial book that recounted true tales of the life of black house maids. Woven into this is each of their own story lines that explore just a portion of what life was back then. You see the steps they take, the risks and threats that haunt them and observe each journey they take together. It provides a glimpse of how appalling a person can be to another for one minute only to gain faith once more when you see another character shows kindness and civility the next.

What truly drags you into the story is the strong acting ability of the cast. It is one thing for me to love the main characters, to feel sympathy and even shed tears for them. The characters that are on the opposite side of the spectrum, such as Hilly Holbrook (Bryce Dallas Howard), are the ones that can make or break a story, no matter how strong the remainder of the cast is. And Howard pulls off a stunning performance. She played a character that just made you want to hate her which goes to show how well she can perform.

Emotions are tested in this movie. The story is well constructed, the relationships strong and, more importantly, believable, all in which are wrapped up in an ending that is both heart breaking yet hopeful at the same time. Now the movie has been out in theaters for a few weeks now and it has stayed at the top of the box office. If you haven’t seen it already try to change that as soon as you can. This is a drama that everyone who is a fan of the genre should see at least once.

Movie Costumes For Adults and Kids by Andrew Hawnt

There are heaps of different movie themed Halloween costumes out theere on the market, and for the best you must check as to whether the costumes you end up picking are officially licensed. With the proper, officially licensed costumes, you can be certain of the best quality materials amazing most authentic designs.
While the traditional kinds of Halloween halloween attire, such as vampires, ghouls, demons, Frankenstein’s monster and so entirely on, are all wonderful things to dress as, as well as being perfectly recognizable, how about movie themed Halloween outfits?

For a start there are the more obvious choices such as Freddy Krueger, Jason Voorhees, Emmanuel Myers and Leatherface. Then there are other horror stars include things like Pinhead from Hellraiser, Hannibal Lecter and more. Beyond horror movie characters, there are a number of other great ideas for movie themed Halloween outfits, such as the Star Trek movies, Star Wars, Harry Potter, Pirates within your Caribbean, Underworld, The Nightmare Before Christmas, Corpse Bride and countless others!

What about a Ghostbusters Halloween costume to combat all those things spookiness? Plus, thanks to these costumes not being linked to a specific season, you can use them again and again available on other social functions, parties, conventions and all manner of extra events!

One of the fantastic things about movie themed Halloween costumes may well absolutely massive wealth in the choice of costume ideas for everyone- genders, boys and girls. Alongside the traditional creepy characters and monsters to get usually turned into Halloween outfits, movie themed Halloween costumes may get you noticed and cause a stir at whatever Halloween party or event you’re maneuvering to this year.

A movie themed outfit would get you recognized at once at any Halloween party or nightclub event, as well as getting you so much attention thanks to everyone’s love of movie characters. Horror film characters truly are a great starting pit for movie themed Halloween costumes, and a straightforward massive range of horror icons to create a costume regarding.

The time for Halloween parties is here once more, therfore the dash is on to find and get the absolute best Halloween outfits for your Halloween party fun! The Halloween season is any blast for everyone that gets involved, and while there can be a lot to prepare for with Halloween parties, such as the right Halloween games, decorations, snacks and so on, the main thing that many people in the market for sorted out first is what to do about their Halloween outfits.

RevolutionSF Watercooler: Superman Movie Costume

At the RevolutionSF Watercooler, we stand around not working, discussing the most important issues affecting society. Namely, how the Superman costume looks in the next Superman movie directed by Watchmen's Zack Snyder.

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Here is the only official image that's out there. Shots from the set abound upon the net, including action shots with Superman minus cape.

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No cape? Superman started the whole capes thing. -- Dave Farnell

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There definitely is a cape, he was wearing a monstrously large one in the official first look photo where he had just bashed in some kind of vault door.

I hate the idea of once more doing the origin, as if there's anyone who doesn't know Supe's background. Unless you're showing some new, possibly added detail that's vital to your story, then there's no real point to it. Except to make it a big point to everyone that "HEY! This is a REBOOT! We changed, like, stuff!"

As for the wetsuit look, that seems to be the new standard, just like it used to be spandex that was the default tights of choice for live-action. I figure there's one very-overworked custom surf shop somewhere in California that keeps getting these bizarre orders, but the shop owner is too Lebowski'ed to realize he's making costumes for the cape set.

I'm unsure about the missing red shorts, but I'm very glad to see the return of the big S-shield. That was my biggest problem with Singer's suit.

What really makes me happy, though, is that he'll be fighting super-villains again, not just natural disasters.

Some dislike Snyder's style, but I disagree. He does action well, and I enjoy the visuals and the fights in his movies, and it will be nice to see Big Blue get to really kick the crap out of some bad guys. However, I agree with Rick that Snyder isn't as good at the emotional side of storytelling, and Supes is all about heart, so that's probably where this movie won't do well. Unless Nolan, who's producing, brings his influence onto the script or editing in this area. -- Gary Mitchel

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"Snyder isn't good at the emotional side of storytelling," said Gary.

Snyder isn't good at the storytelling side of storytelling. There, I fixed it for you. -- Jayme Blaschke

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This is just a guess, based entirely upon the director, but the cape COULD be added as CGI after the fact. There seems to be tabs on the costume where the cape would go. Oh, what a train wreck. -- Mark Finn

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I miss the red undies. It just all seems wrong.

On the good side, based on this and other photos, they have kept Henry Cavill's lovely curly hair. -- Deanna Toxopeus

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Do we know if this is YET ANOTHER reboot? I really don't need another re-telling of Superman's origin story in my life.

You know what I really need? Someone who will make the movie (and do it justice) of the Red Son one-off. -- Sarah Arnold

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I understand the thought behind it. It's very difficult to look dignified when you're standing around in adult Underoos. But really, why would Superman need body armor? -- Peggy Hailey

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So, Peggy. What you're really saying is that we should start demanding fully nude Superman.

I think I can get behind this.

-- Sarah Arnold

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There are other shots online that do make it look like the costume is designed for snap-on capeage.

Naturally, every director that comes down the pike has to reinvent something that has no need for reinventing, to retell an origin story that pretty much everyone and their dog knows by heart already. If they don't, then the audiences might realize they're creatively bankrupt.

As disappointed as I was in Singer's Superman Returns, I seriously doubt there will be one second in the Snyder film that's half as riveting as Singer's plane crash sequence.

And why, for the love of Pete, do they have to rip off the Spider-Man reboot (don't get me started) by going for the rubberized wetsuit look? -- Jayme Blaschke

Look at the new Superman uniform. Now go look at the new Spider-Man outfit in the RevolutionSF Watercooler we did about that. What is with the really small scales on these guys? -- Matt Cowger

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My thoughts on Snyder are well chronicled and nothing I've seen nor heard about Man of Steel changes my opinions.

Cavill should have a snorkel and goggles with that suit. Will this Superman need to wait 20 minutes after eating before he goes flying?

Without the red shorts and cape and the apparent armor, it looks moronic. Only Snyder would think it's a good idea to digitize the cape. Why go the simple, natural way when you can add yet another artificial, soul sucking digital effect?

This is looking like yet another lifeless, cold Zach Snyder picture. -- Rick Klaw

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I'm mostly with Gary on this one. Of Snyder's movies, Sucker Punch was the only one that disappointed me, and even that was fun to watch.

As for Snyder's story-telling deficiencies, I admit that he has them, but Snyder did a better conveying the emotional lives of the Watchmen than Alan Moore did. There, I said it. I now await crucifixion.

And the suit: You know Snyder's going to post-production the hell out of the thing, so there's not much sense Cassandring over one lousy photo. And boy is it a lousy photo.

I was by no means panting for another Supes movie, but with Snyder and Nolan involved, it raises my interest level significantly. -- Jason Myers

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Snyder's a visual stylist, all right, but 300 was loud and crass and for all his slavish devotion to the source material in Watchmen, when he did introduce stuff he made up himself to that movie, his instincts proved terribly wrong. Watchmen wasn't as awful as I expected. Damning with faint praise? Yep. I haven't the stomach to endure Sucker Punch yet.

Snyder is the wrong director for Superman. I'm not sure who's right, at this point. And I'm no longer mollified by Nolan's involvement. Memento is my favorite movie of his, and while I really, really like both Bat-movies, I'm getting the uncomfortable feeling Dark Knight has reached the point of undeserved adulation.

What's worse, Inception stunned me by its utter lack of imagination, beyond the basic premise. I fear Nolan, like Tim Burton before him, has a finite amount of genius in him and we may well have reached his sell-by date. -- Jayme Blaschke

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In Watchmen, I remember thinking at the time that overwhelmingly the changes were good. I forget the details of Ozymandias' plot in the movie, but it's 100 times better than fake alien invasion. And what Peter Jackson did for Boromir, Snyder did for most of the characters in Watchmen: take the seeds of character that were there and grow them into breathing life. In the movie, I cared about Nite-Owl, felt like the relationship between Manhattan and Silk Spectre was real, bought the complicated relationship between The Comedian and Sally Jupiter, and felt real sympathy for Manhattan.

In the comic, not so much on any of those accounts. I felt like The Comedian was a tragic character rather than just a straw-man for Moore's political commentary.

Moore's Watchman is fascinating and groundbreaking. Snyder's Watchmen is not flawless. But man, that opening montage just floored me, and there were plenty of other moments that did.

I've pretty much always seen Superman as a one-trick pony, until Smallville. We've seen what happens when someone plays it safe (Literally, the most excited I got in Superman Returns is when they played the original theme during the opening credits. Also, I was rooting for Lois Lane to end up with Cyclops). Even if Snyder's Supes is a hot mess, it's unlikely to be boring. -- Jason Myers

Studying Costume Design

Costume design is the process of creating the clothing of a character. Costume designers design and construct the apparel of characters for television, cinema, the theater, and other areas of performance art. Costume design is very important, as the designer is responsible for the appearance of the actors, something that can convey significant things about character or story.

The responsibilities of a costume designer are many and include reading the script, working with other production staff to develop designs and concepts, drawing preliminary sketches and fleshing them out, working with wardrobe and continuing to flesh out the designs, purchasing the materials required to build the costumes, fleshing them out some more, and then actually building them. It is a long, difficult, and sometimes costly process.

In ancient Greece, costume design consisted of making theatrical masks used to convey specific things about a character. Later, this was accomplished through more elaborate and complex outfits coupled with equally more elaborate and complex storytelling.

Those interested in a career in costume design generally need specific education and a lot of creativity. Designers are expected to have knowledge of pattern development, costume and fashion history, drafting, draping, textiles, and more, and they must be able to do thorough research. Designers should have a two-year or four-year degree in fashion or costume design.

The earnings of a costume designer vary based on experience, education, and reputation. Professional, highly experienced designers can receive contracts worth over one hundred thousand dollars. But those new in the field earn much less than veterans. Costume design is a tough job, but the rewards of seeing one’s own work on stage or on-screen is worth all the hard work and effort.