The Costume Department is responsible for the design, fitting, hire,
purchase, manufacture, continuity and care of all costume items on feature
films. The term 'Costume' refers to the clothes that the actors wear, and these
differ enormously from production to production, ranging from contemporary urban
fashion to period ball gowns, and even wetsuits. The Costume Department is also
responsible for jewellery, footwear, corsetry, hosiery, millinery and sometimes
wig work. Costume is integral in defining the overall 'look' of the film. It
provides the audience with information about the period, culture and society the
actors inhabit and, on a more subtle level, the underlying themes of the film
itself.
Work in the Costume Department is divided between two 'wardrobes': the
'making wardrobe', which incorporates the design, acquisition and creation of
costume during pre-production; and the 'running wardrobe', which takes care of
the organization, maintenance and continuity of costumes during the film
shoot.
The
costume designer is the head of the department, and works closely with
the production designer and director to ensure that costumes blend into the
overall production design. The costume designer oversees a team that usually
includes a costume design assistant, costume supervisor, costume assistants and
costume dailies. On larger productions, the costume designer may employ a team
of skilled technicians in a costume workshop, which could include cutters,
makers, finishers, dyers and milliners. There may also be a wardrobe supervisor
to oversee the running wardrobe.
Job responsibilities for personnel in the Costume Department vary
enormously from production to production, depending on the requirements of the
costume designer. As a result, the boundaries between job roles are blurred,
particularly in the case of costume design assistants, costume supervisors and
wardrobe supervisors. During the shoot costume personnel ensure that costumes
are available when required, assist performers with dressing, oversee costume
continuity, and maintain and service costumes when not in use. After the shoot
costume personnel ensure that costumes are safely stored, packed and returned to
the relevant sources, or sold.
What do Costume Designers do?
Costume Designers start working on films at the beginning of
pre-production. They are in charge of designing, creating, acquiring and hiring
all costumes for actors and extras. This must be achieved within strict budgets,
and to tight schedules. Costume Designers' work is integral to defining the
overall 'look' of films, and their role requires a great deal of expertise.
Their creative work ranges from designing original costumes, to overseeing the
purchase and adaptation of ready made outfits. As heads of the costume
department, Costume Designers are responsible for staffing, and for managing a
team of skilled personnel. Costume Designers also supervise practical issues,
such as departmental budgets and schedules, the organization of running
wardrobes, and costume continuity.
Responsibilities:
During pre-production Costume Designers break down scripts scene by scene,
in order to work out how many characters are involved, and what costumes are
required. They then begin the more complex task of developing costume plots for
each character. These plots ensure that colors and styles do not mimic each
other in the same scene, and highlight the characters' emotional journeys by
varying the intensity and depth of colors.
Costume Designers must carry out research in to the costume styles, designs
and construction methods which are appropriate for the productions' time period,
using a number of resources including libraries, museums and the Internet. They
may also discuss costume and character ideas with performers. They deliver
initial ideas to directors about the overall costume vision, character plots and
original costume designs, using sketches and fabric samples. They also discuss
color palettes with the director of photography and the production designer.
Throughout the production process Costume Designers ensure that accurate
financial records are kept, and that weekly expenditure reports are produced.
They prepare overall production schedules, as well as directing the day to day
breakdowns of responsibilities. Costume Designers select and hire appropriate
suppliers and costume makers, negotiating terms with them, and communicating
design requirements. They make sure that fittings for actors and extras are
arranged. They supervise fabric research and purchase, and ensure that garments
are completed to deadlines.
Depending on the numbers of costumes to be created, and the scale of
budgets, Costume Designers may decide to create a dedicated costume workshop.
They should be on set whenever a new costume is worn for the first time, to make
sure that performers are comfortable, to explain special features, and to
oversee any alterations. Once filming is completed, Costume Designers are
responsible for the return of hired outfits, and the sale or disposal of any
remaining costumes.
Skills:
Costume Designers must be highly organized, with good presentation skills
and the confidence to manage and motivate their teams effectively. They should
be able to work under pressure, to meet external and departmental deadlines, and
must have stamina and be adaptable to changes. They need to be able to listen to
the ideas and concerns of others, while at the same time trusting their own
opinions and instincts. They work closely with actors in a physical sense, and
must therefore be tactful and able to put people at their ease.
Costume Designers need good descriptive abilities, and they must be able to
break down scripts in terms of costume plots, and have knowledge of story
structure and character arcs. They must understand the research process, and
know how to source information. They need creative flair, a strong sense of
color and design and the ability to draw. They should be confident in their
knowledge of period costume, jewellery, corsetry, hosiery, millinery, footwear,
costume accessories, etc. They must be experts on fabric qualities, clothing
cuts, fits and techniques, pattern making and sewing. Creatively, they should
know how to dress to particular faces or physiques to create characters.
Costume Designers must be highly organized, with good presentation skills
and the confidence to manage and motivate their teams effectively. They should
be able to work under pressure, to meet external and departmental deadlines, and
must have stamina and be adaptable to changes. They need to be able to listen to
the ideas and concerns of others, while at the same time trusting their own
opinions and instincts. They work closely with actors in a physical sense, and
must therefore be tactful and able to put people at their ease.
Costume Designers need good descriptive abilities, and they must be able to
break down scripts in terms of costume plots, and have knowledge of story
structure and character arcs. They must understand the research process, and
know how to source information. They need creative flair, a strong sense of
color and design and the ability to draw. They should be confident in their
knowledge of period costume, jewellery, corsetry, hosiery, millinery, footwear,
costume accessories, etc. They must be experts on fabric qualities, clothing
cuts, fits and techniques, pattern making and sewing. Creatively, they should
know how to dress to particular faces or physiques to create characters.
Overall Costume Designers need a wide ranging cultural knowledge base, not
only in terms of fashion, but also art and literature, film, and textiles.
Costume Designers should be familiar with the requirements of all relevant
health and safety legislation and procedures.